My fascination with trains started when I was probably about ten years old. Every summer, my parents would drop me off at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles where I’d catch the Amtrak train to visit my grandparents in San Diego. I have such happy memories of them meeting me at the terminal, waving as my train pulled up.
Union Station, Los Angeles
My interest in train travel continued years later, after graduating college, when I backpacked around Europe with a Eurail Pass in hand. I was amazed by the vast network of rail lines and the speed, efficiency, and (for the most part) punctuality of the trains. I especially enjoyed boarding a train in one city, sleeping overnight in a couchette, and then waking up in another country altogether!
So, after a more than twenty-year-long hiatus, I decided to try out American train travel once again. Instead of driving the usual 120 miles to San Diego to visit my sister, brother-in-law, and twenty-month-old nephew, I hopped aboard Amtrak’s Pacific Surfliner. The roundtrip fare set me back $55.80 (with my AAA discount), so roughly equivalent to the price of a tank of gas. This makes it economical for a person to travel solo, but if you’re going with anyone else it’s more cost effective to carpool. The train was scheduled to depart at 9:40 a.m. and arrive in downtown San Diego at 12:25 p.m., which is about a half-hour longer than it would have taken to drive that distance. Of course, Southern California is notorious for its horrendous traffic so a road trip could take three or more hours anyway.
The interior of L.A.'s Union Station
As I walked through historic Union Station to board my train, I was (as always) awed by the beautiful architecture—a mélange of Spanish Mission and Streamline Moderne styles. Its cavernous interior has vaulted, wood-beam ceilings, thick adobe walls and polished marble floors that amplify the footfalls of people rushing to catch their trains. Built in 1939, Union Station remains a major transportation hub and an iconic symbol for Los Angeles. I boarded my train and was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the coaches. I was half expecting them to be run-down relics from the past, since the U.S. isn’t exactly known for its investment in rail technology. However, it was a thoroughly modern, climate controlled, double-decker train—it even had LED signs displaying the upcoming stops. The seats in Coach Class were clean, comfortable, had plenty of legroom, and reclined quite a bit as well. (For all the technological advancement, I must say that a small part of me missed the clackety-clack sounds and the burnt, oily smell I remembered from being a kid though.)
View of the Pacific Ocean from the train
The Pacific Surfliner originates on California’s central coast in San Luis Obisbo, passing through Santa Barbara (and many points in between) before reaching Los Angeles, where I boarded. My route continued through Orange County with several stops, including one in Anaheim, not far from Disneyland. As it passed San Juan Capistrano, the train curved towards the coast where the remaining half of the journey took place. My window seat afforded panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean all the way till we reached the terminus in downtown San Diego. The station, called Santa Fe Depot, is another beautiful example of Spanish Mission-style architecture. Built in 1915, it’s situated right on the harbor with modern steel and glass high-rises surrounding it on three sides. Quite a bit smaller than L.A.’s Union Station, the whitewashed building has two ornate towers and its interior walls are adorned with gold, green and blue glazed tiles. Their Moorish-inspired pattern is reminiscent of tiles I’ve seen on my journeys in Southern Spain.
There are several benefits of rail travel, the most obvious reason being that you can sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride. You have the ability to read a book, watch a movie on your laptop or do some work in this “portable office.” Having access to Wi-Fi would have been nice and, unfortunately, I was reminded that I wasn’t traveling in Germany or Switzerland when the train pulled into San Diego forty minutes late. The biggest detraction, however, was that my return trip was supposed to depart on Sunday at 6:00 p.m. but was inexplicably canceled. So, rather than take a later train and arrive after midnight, I took a morning one on Monday instead.
All in all, my train experience was really quite fun. It made my journey seem like a special event and not just another mundane drive down to San Diego. The trains going both directions were filled to capacity, so it’s apparent that it’s a popular mode of transportation. That being said, I can see why it’s so hard to pry Californians away from their cars. If the trip had been less expensive, more reliable, and gone faster I could definitely imagine a lot more people traveling by rail, like is so common in Europe and Asia. I’m really excited that our government is finally investing in high-speed rail (HSR) in the coming years. Even still, it will take a long time for us to catch up with so much of the world. I long for the day when I can hop on a train and be whisked to San Diego in only 80 minutes. Maybe California’s HSR network will be built in time for me to take a high-speed train to my nephew’s high school graduation?
Michael Figueiredo is a freelance travel writer based in Los Angeles, California. When he’s not gallivanting around the world, he’s enjoying the laid-back lifestyle and perfect weather of Southern California. So far he’s visited thirty-six countries and territories on five continents. His goal is to see at least one new country every year! . Read more from this author
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Cool! I’ve always loved trains, probably because I grew up in Hawaii where there are none! I’m planning on taking the Amtrak from Tucson to LA where I will fly out for Bangkok next month!
Twitter: @TravelingWithS
Really enjoyed this post, Michael! Nice memories you have.
I love train travel, but haven’t done a lot of it yet. The rail system in Europe is pretty impressive, isn’t it? I spent a few days traveling by train in Switzerland.
Our rail system in the U.S. could use much improvement and I hope that’s where we’re headed. I took Amtrak’s Coast Starlight from San Joe to Santa Barbara once and have a mixed review. The coaches were wonderful and I enjoyed having lunch on the way out and dinner on the way back in the dining car. Of course, the scenery couldn’t have been more beautiful either especially when we were right at the coast and the sun was setting! The downside was that the train was a couple of hours late getting to SJ and then was very slow much of the way down because of some controls that were in place at the time – might be different now. Since I was only going down for an overnight stay, it wasn’t very efficient. Love the pics, Michael.
Twitter: @struxtravel
It sounds like your experience was similar to mine, Cathy. The U.S. really needs to step up its game with rail travel!
Twitter: @vagabond3live
We just took the surfliner in September coming back from San Diego and absolutely loved it! I felt like it was pretty reasonable considering I didn’t have to sit in traffic and could be online at the same time!
Like you, I really wish train travel was more vast and economical here in the US. I always look at taking Amtrak when I go from St. Louis to Chicago, but it’s usually quicker and cheaper to just drive. I loved taking the train around Europe, Thailand, and India though.
I’ve taken this trip many times. I live in San Diego and I use it to go to LAX since I feel bad about asking friends to drive me up there. Its not a bad ride and scenery is beautiful. I agree though I would use it more if it was more efficient. I hope some day we’ll see it advance into something closer to what europe has.
I’m definitely trying this the next time I visit LA. I usually just rely on my own transpo but didn’t know the views look great!
We absolutely love rail travel. It’s great fun and a great way to get around – more relaxing than flying with the benefit of being dropped off right in the centre of the city you’re visiting.
I was never that fussed on it as a kid, like you were. Something’s happened in my later years that’s made me become a bit of train freak!
Julia
Twitter: @robinjgraham
I took the surfliner as far as Carlsbad once from San Diego and enjoyed it. The only US train I’ve ever been on except for urban commuter trains.
Twitter: @ExpatGermany
I wish trains were more popular in Canada and the U.S. as well. In Canada, the only train is for tourists and it’s really expensive. I took the train from LAX to visit friends in Santa Barbara a few years ago and really enjoyed it as well.
Twitter: @InspirngTrvlrs
That station is really beautiful! I had no idea about this train in California…sounds like an excellent journey.
I used to take the Amtrak from STL to Chicago all the time when I was too young to do the long drive by myself. I’m with you though, it just doesn’t seem that logical anymore. I can’t wait for HSR!
Twitter: @aviewtoathrill
I share your excitement of the US finally taking rail service seriously. I probably won’t be around to see it, but glad that someone is at least moving forward on this.
Hi, your blog’s design is elegant and clean and I like it. Your blog posts are fascinating. Please keep them coming. Greets!!!
Love, love train travel. Shoot me a note if you want to guest post a train story on The Ultimate Train Challenge website.
That looks like a beautiful trip. I took the train from San Diego to San Luis Obisbo long ago, I really enjoyed it.
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Wow, LOVE those slideshow images, this is serious appetite-making travel food, thanks! Nice, clean & modern interiors too.
Twitter: @genebowker
Love the photos of the train depots. I grew up near San Diego and used to ride the train to Los Angeles.
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Twitter: @CruisePictures
I always loved trains. I once took a train in CA just for the sake of doing it. Nice blog.
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This travel is really engaging wish i could experience this also.this post really inspiring to us.thanks for sharing =)
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